For that reason, the reality of modern Stockholm is often a pleasant surprise for visiting Americans. Sure, Swedes are proud of their Volvos (you'll see them everywhere among the orderly traffic downtown). And the national cultural heritage museum recently ran a major (but sadly, temporary) exhibit on the group that put Sweden on the musical map.

But the country is not all boxy cars and pop music. It's not cold year-round, and not everyone is blond. Whatever your preconceived notions of Sweden's capital, put them aside. Stockholm is a uniquely and unpredictably charming city, full of surprises.

Sane Traffic
You may wonder if you're really in Europe the first time one of those Volvos coasts to a halt at a crosswalk, granting you the right of way. It's said to be very difficult to get a driver's license in Sweden, and it shows. Stockholm's drivers are among the most conscientious (and slow) in Europe.

Mild Climate
Winter is undeniably cold, with average daily temperatures hovering around freezing. But as soon as the days start to lengthen, Stockholm becomes a pleasantly warm city. Average summer daily temperatures get up into the sixties. Mid-day will be much warmer, with the mercury occasionally creeping up as high as 80.

No Language Barrier
The bad news is that Swedish is a difficult tongue, pronounced in a way that, to a native English speaker, seems to have no relation at all to the written language. The good news is that practically everyone speaks excellent English. Swedes are required to study English starting in fifth grade, and even in the countryside, adults everywhere have a command of the language that puts most native English speakers to shame. Swedes accept that few tourists will have bothered to learn their language, and are remarkably accommodating of we lazy Americans.

Diverse Population
You won't have to go far to see evidence of Sweden's changing demographics. Yes, there still are a lot of blondes. But Sweden, with its liberal immigration policies, has a substantial foreign-born population. In fact, up to 10 percent of Swedes today are either foreign-born or the children of immigrants.

Affection for the Royal Family
Unlike the citizens of a certain other European country slightly to the West, all Swedes adore their figurehead leaders. And why shouldn't they? Stopped for speeding through the streets of Stockholm last year (all right, not all Swedes are considerate drivers), King Carl Gustaf cheerfully paid his ticket promptly. Would Queen Elizabeth have handled the situation with this kind of humility? We think not.

Constant Twilight
Several hundred miles south of the Arctic Circle, Stockholm never gets the true midnight sun. What it does get is a stunningly long summer twilight, ensuring that for a few months each summer, the sun may dip below the horizon every night, but it never gets completely dark outside.

Architecture
Sweden, a Protestant country, doesn't have any soaring cathedrals like the ones you'll find in France or Spain. But it does have plenty of beautiful architecture, especially in Gamla Stan, the oldest part of Stockholm. In Gamla Stan, you can't miss the Ridderholm church, Stockholm's second oldest. The enormous church has been the final resting place for Sweden's royalty for centuries. Another impressive building is the nearby Nordiska Museet, or Nordic Museum. By all means, go inside--it's full of exhibits of clothing, furniture, film, and more detailing everyday Swedish life through the ages. But be sure to stop to take in the sight of the handsome stone edifice from the outside, as well. A final can't-miss stop is the central City Hall building. Far from being a drab bureaucratic building, the 1923 structure is impressive enough to be the site of the annual Nobel Prize banquet. The rest of the year, it is open to the public. The mosaic room, covered in 18 million tiny tiles containing over 50 pounds of gold leaf, is worth the price of admission alone.